Shanghai

They say traveling is the best education, but I have found that only partially to be true. Much depends on the company you keep or who happens to cross your path along the way. I’ve been to China several times, 3 Olympic test event races, the real deal in 2008- Olympic Games- and a few follow up events. It has always only been to Beijing and surrounding areas, always to compete and the last time around was 15 years ago. CANYON invited me this time around and I decided to stay a bit longer than just their event. I had heard rumours of the endurance market exploding and it getting gaining a never seen popularity, so why not check explore it further out while I was going to be there.

It’s interesting since triathlon itself never really took off during my time competing on the Olympic stage distance. The Chinese property group Wanda, that bought Ironman a few years back also didn’t seem to get the traction needed to make the sport popular in it’s home country.

Hence my surprise over the last few days. A city of almost 25 million citizens turns into a cycling and running haven of whispering roads. Unlike New York, this city sleeps! From 5 to 7am is the window that is turning local amateurs into flashes of speed cutting through the alleys and cycling lanes (of which there are plenty). Every now and then the smell of cinnamon lies in the air, reminding you what’s coming after your ride and why it’s worth getting up at 4:30am. The ‘hipness level’ is up there to Copenhagen standards and average speeds range from 25 to 45km/h. Depending on which side of the river you ride, there are several cycling hotspot cafes you could just as easily find in Melbourne or any other coffee capital, where Strava stats are the local lingo. Excuses for why today wasn’t the day and race plans being discussed in a fluent mix of Chinese and English.

I am absolutely blown away by this city. The streets are lined with trees, it’s clean, somehow chaotic while everything works perfectly. I relay this to my Olympic teammate and table tennis legend Timo Boll (who’s an idol here) and he’s not surprised. He travels here about 10 times a year and has done so for 20 plus years. He tells me about the cultural differences across the country and that even he would never enter a local table tennis tournament: “you can’t just show up here… Chances are the local janitor can beat you on his day!” Talk about depth of talent, but I guess no different to signing up for a random 10km run in Kenya.

Trying Pigeon for lunch was not on my bingo card for this trip but politeness prevailed - turns out if it where presented differently I’d probably never have known. Still my daughter has sworn to refuse the welcome home kiss to me.

Wang Jiachao, para triathlete and Olympic swimming champion tells me, had he not lost his arm at the age of 5 he’d be a farmer, just like everyone in his family. My impression tells me pity is not something lost on the Chinese and you have to carve your own way or get left behind.

It’s a good thing I don’t use ChatGPT to write these newsletters as it doesn’t work here- thankfully my wife helps me translate my slang and Mum is still telling me where to put commas 25 years after I finished school;). There are plenty of differences that travel naturally evokes and like always, sport builds a bridge to connect people and cultures. I’ve managed to close a gap of ignorance and can only recommend to stop over if ever your path brings you to the area.

My top 3 coffee shops in Shanghai:

Google maps doesn’t really lead anywhere except shops that shut down ages ago. It’s all about roaming the streets and finding gems or go where all the cyclists do…

Coffee Surround- super nice, tiny shop in a tree lined alley.

Baker and Spice- the one that opens at 6 and is lined with the finest carbon the cycling industry has to offer.

Doe- a mix of clothes, vinyl records and specialty coffee. It’s a vibe.

See you next week…

One more day here and I’m flying to the next culture shock, with a short stop in Europe to pick up Emma. New York- we were last there for our honeymoon, so plenty of positive memories. Some good friends, interesting conversations and a my first live baseball game await. The glass is full.

Jan.

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